AI is not helping you except to allow you do avoid drawing a scale floorplan on graph paper. Do that and post it. Couple hours to begin down a functional path within a budget.

The only thing worth keeping in this design is the flooring, although in a mediterranean kitchen stone floors would be better if youre being true to the style. You say you want a timeless kitchen but . this looks like a cold sterile out of date high rise condo kitchen. It is in no way shape or form appropriate for a mediterranean style home. With your high ceilings you have such a great opportunity to make this kitchen true to the style of the homes architecture and add beams which would be mediterranean appropriate. You need to go back to the drawing board and start by researching different architectural styles and specifically mediterranean. Timeless never dates. This does.

Have you lived in this for long? How long?

I see no "Tuscan"

I see a typical generic , one of this, one of that, this is what sells here Florida build on a typically narrow lot.

I' d paint the cabinets, rip out the island for new. Even the layout, while not perfection, is hardly OMG I CAN NOT MAKE A MEAL.!!!!!

You need no stone floor, the moonscape soffit needs to go.

To be blunt? It is not really any worse than your suggested AI images..............Sorry

Try my layout and you can move the sofa forward to gain better space between the sofa back and the peninsula seating.

Another configuration puts the sofa where the tv is and the tv opposite at eye level. The recliner angled where the sofa is opens the room.

Trying is so much the way to get the feel for what makes youe space feel right. One more outside possibility. Place the sofa on the tv wall but up closer to the curtain left edge of the window. Recliner off the right corner of the sofa facing the tv. 4k tv viewing distances are now down to 3 feet because of number of pixels. This could give you the better viewing experience, especially for sports like tennis/football. The old tv wall could be filled with 11" deep storage behind doors to add pantry. Or a bookcase wall.

I like @Emily’s version. The entire room opens up when the sofa is at that end.
Get athletic socks and put them under the furniture so you can shove everything around. Move the rug out for now until the furniture is set.
If a new sofa is in consideration, let us know. Something smaller - in a lighter color - would also change the room dramatically.

@Alyssa LOVE the open shelving on the TV wall. THe whole room looks lovely. I am not sure that I have that much space on that wall but I can take measurments. I am getting so much good insight that I just have to try all arrangments, I think.. @Khiddekel Those Murano glass chandaliers...just WOW.

The competitors are flat cut wide plank European Oak. Different oak species without the upen grain of N.American white/red oak. The look you can get has grain cathedrals and swirels with prime grade. Some knots in rustic grade. Not as yellow red orange. Pale brown tones with matte finished wate tp 11 inch widths. Eucalyptus and birch hadwood r poly. Rift cut is available but not necessary. Every flooring manufacturer has product. Hakwood, DuChateau, Monarch Plank, Hurst Hardwoods, Armstrong and many more in 7 to 11 inch widths to show off the flat cut. Core needs to be eucalyptus or birch hardwood plywood. The top layer is 4 or 6mm which gives the same refinishing options as solid tongue and groove. The products are made in Europe and SE Asia.

We had a great experience with another Canadian brand, Preverco’s R&Q White Oak. This collection comes in many attractive colors, with Natural remaining one of the best sellers. I’m sharing a few pictures with you here, showing the Natural and Raw finishes for reference.

@porkchop_z5b_MI "rweigand -- do you have pics of that floor?"

Sorry, no, it predated digital cameras, so projects of that era went pretty well undocumented.

... so you can rotate it onto the sink flange while keeping it vertically aligned.

Shimming the disposal base above the cabinet base with scrap wood or using a "lab jack" can help.

It weighs 19lbs. Yhe flange is ramped. Align, rotate and you'll lock in place. Make the p-trap connections. Plug it on.

There are 300+ species of oak. Quercis robur grows in weatern Europe. Unlike N. American white oak, q. alba which has open grain that turns dark, it has closed grain. This meeans you don't need to rift or quarter saw it to avoid the open grain. You can flat cut it in wide planks and show off the grain cathedrals for the top. It for be water based finished to avoid yellowing from oil finishes. Ciranova can give an ultra matte finish pale brown. Rustic grade will have knots and prime or select will have fewer. This European or French Oak is used extensively in engineered flooring in custom new homes. Since he hasn't offered it, he will have to be carefully supervised at stages of the beginning of the project. Specific review of the wood selection and grain matching for the top via phone messaging with pictures and apprvals is a highly recommended option to be negotiated, imo. Respectful involement can be an enjoyable educational experience based on your interest in Japanese joinery.

From looking more, it seems a really good option to ask about is Japanese Oak Nara Mizunara (Quercus crispula) and Konara. , used throughout Japan historically. With water poly seal coats and top coats a pale non-yellow finish is possible. Finer grain than European Oak.

A Japanese Oak table from HIDA. lINK

Thanks all. I should have added that #1 is QS white oak both top & base, #2 walnut top & cherry base, #3 African mahogany top & walnut base and #4 white oak top & walnut base. All AI generated images.
I’m attaching a picture of the space and adjoining kitchen to show you the other woods in play. I would also like help in deciding on the shape that works best.

For your eight-seat goal, I'd settle the seating layout before the wood combination. At 78 inches, the layout to test is three chairs on each long side and one at each end. Ask the maker for a scaled top view with your actual chair widths, the base, and the overhang marked. The base can determine whether those seats are usable, especially near the ends.

I'd compare oval and rectangular outlines at the same maximum dimensions using paper or a floor template, then put the chairs around them. An oval removes sharp corners, but also takes away some surface area near the end seats; it doesn't automatically seat more people.

Since the options are AI images, ask for finished physical wood samples before choosing the combination. Compare them beside the cabinetry and floor in daylight and your evening lighting. That will give you a much better basis for judging the color than the renderings.

I would do something like this. Is there a door at the end of the hallway next to the kitchen ? Either way, if there is a hallway, I would not remove the way. Having the wall also provides additional storage. You can also create arch or a simple square opening in the hallway, if that is necessary.

Your trusses or joists, which way do they go? Should be across the space and the post you show should not be necessary. A contractor is not a structural engineer. Remove the wall and closet. You then can configure a functional kitchen with an island. All drawer base cabs. You won't need uncomfortable seating with a dining table with normal height chairs right there. I'd cut the wall bryween the kitchen and the powder room back some.

Everyone says that about the roof blocking light. There is such a thing as relief from so much light particularly in FL and depending on the direction this area is facing.

Then there are skylights on a porch roof, which we did and love the ever changing light.

c

With the scope possibilities expanded, let's go beyomd the added framing structure for the screened porch and reroofing. Remove the wondow wall with no dor. The doorwall with screens is moved outward to the outer porch elevation.

I'd take a hint and avoid wood altogether.

Our new basement flooring is tile that so looks like wood that even pros reach down to check.

The wood at the top of the stairs is flat cut yellowed golden oak with the open grain that turns dark and two dimensional. That is why flat cut European Oak, with closed grain when flat cut and paler less yellow tone is the current popular choice with matte water-based poly finishes. You can match the look with 300 hour waterproof laminate from the Evolved Series from McMillian.

When I see this space, it feels more inside finished than porch outside. I'd add warmth with a pale wide plank European Oak laminate flooring from McMillian Floors. Evolved Series, waterproof for 300 hours. No edge seal required. Simple click lock. Add a rug. Whatever you think may work, the recommendation is to get a bpx and lay it all out in the space with your lighting.

I would use a charcoal slate tile from Brazil - durable/not slippery + there are many sizes available (I bought mine gauged and honed = consistent sizes and smooth top layer).

My suggestion is out for freezing temps. Large format porceline tile or large honed stone would be the next ption.. Minimum grout lines with epoxy grout.

Who is the carpet manufacturer. Contact them to get recommendations. Wool rugs often have a coarse backing that can catch on a needle punched felt pad and be held in place to avoid stretching and buckling. A natural rubber pad is another option to hold the rig in place on a wood floor. Myers Carpet in Dalton Georgia will have the best product.

Have you been able to pull the wrinkle out and it just doesn't stay flat?

thin rugs on top of a carpet creates issues, but the quality of the rug makes all the difference.

I realize it's not the dilemma but

... have you tried moving the bed to face the windows? with the chairs under the horizontal painting?

gorilla grip makes a rug to carpet pad which worked well for us in my daughters room to hold a thin area rug in place over wall to wall carpet.

A Miele Combi Steam oven is often seem as the second oven choice. There's a long thread discussing it you may want to check.

thinkdesignlive: "I have had people say that it’s better to do separate units rather than the combo."

It adds cost, complexity, more cabinet work, and the requirement for two electrical circuits.

• GE Profile PT9800SHSS ($3800)
• GE Profile PTS7000SZSS ($2200) + GE Profile PSB9120SVSS ($2500) = $4700

We had two separate units from Bosch 800 series - electric oven and speed oven. The speed oven started to have issues 2 years in. eventually we replaced it, with regular microwave. From my experience, I would not recommend Bosch speed oven. Their customer service is not good, I also saw others complaining about the same issues I had with the unit. I also ended up not using the speed oven that much even when it was working correctly. It could be just me. If I had to do all over again, I probably would choose 'steam oven' . Having separate units made it easy to replace the speed oven. If an appliance has multiple functions the chances of it breaking is much higher. If you still go with combo unit, make sure to get extended warranty.

The width of the right side of your current house loks lots bigger than the design with the addition. Different roof pitches also. I'd work on the final house design. Then do the garage/ pool house to relate to that more. The 3 garage doors could function better as 2 wider openings.

I understand these are AI images and not actual. I know it alters sizes, colors, etc to make things more attractive. I use it to give a visual of color schemes we are thinking. We are using an architect to design the pool house and garage. It will NOT be metal as that will not be allowed in our subdivision codes. We are using vertical siding and a brick skirting. We will paint the brick skirting and the brick on our house to match. I however know a few years down the road we want to add on to our house so I want to make sure what we do can make sense down the road.

I hope this is helpful information for anyone who commented as it seems my first message is not relaying well based on the comments.

A frameless alternative to Hampton is IKEA Vedhamn. Built with European Oak in Hungary. Blum hardware.

Will your cabinetry be done in a new configuration? If not, will suggest you consider keeping the current cabinetry (if it's in good shape) and replacing the doors and drawer fronts.

The hardwood looks like it could potentially the Bruce prefinished floors - those can’t be sanded down. So it’s more a question of if the hardwood can actually be sanded down or not.

Hey!

I’m actually researching this exact kind of material decision for a small tool I’m testing. Your situation is a great example: the cabinets, countertop and backsplash are already there, and now the flooring has to work with all of them.

The idea is to compare the actual material options in the context of the existing room and explain why one works better than another — looking at things like undertones, contrast, material harmony and overall balance rather than generating another AI redesign.

Since you’re going back for more samples next week, would you be open to trying the very early concept? No need to buy anything — I’d mainly love to know whether this approach would actually help you narrow down the decision.

Two of this group show stripy tone variations you don't see in wood floors or cabinets.

Cushions can be tethored in different methods. Also important for longterm comfort is the way they are filled. Pocketed springs, urethane foam and the different densities, and latex in different densities. Urethane will deteriorate the quickest.

For your everyday use, I wouldn’t rule out a two-cushion sofa just because you occasionally seat three. I’d make your 20–22-inch usable seat depth the first filter: measure from the front of the seat to the face of the back cushion, not the sofa’s overall depth. If you can try one in person, sit in your usual TV-watching position with your feet on the floor.

For the popping-up concern, try sitting near each cushion’s inner edge, then across the centre seam, and have someone sit beside you. Ask whether the cushions are attached, reversible, and replaceable; those are more useful things to check on the actual sofa than assuming two cushions will behave a particular way.

A bench seat is worth trying for comparison, as Judy suggested, but I’d still test the middle position. Which two-cushion models are on your shortlist?

I love it when there are lots of pillows.

Two factors I'd consider. The guest bedroom door usually opens into the room like the main bedroom. This makes you keep it closed. What's the layout of that space? If I owned the apartment I'd rehang it opening in. If not, I'd seriosly consider removing the hinge pins and pulling the door to go to storage until a guest is coming. 3 minute refit. Once the door is solved,I'd move the desk into the guest room. This simplifies and unclutters the main space. You can add a large ottoman as a table surface and lounging extension or use two. A couch with chaise and ottoman. A sectional with ottoman. I don't choode coffee tables.

Keeping the desk in the space I'd put it on the wall left pf the kitchen. The tv on the wall left of the entrance. Sofa for now on the storage wall. Two big ottomans. A second sofa or replace the sofa with a sectional across the center and along the storage wall. But closer to the tv for the seating across the space. 4000k tvs make sitting closer fully acceptable.

I like the second layout, but I'd get two smaller side chairs and not a love seat. Where do you eat? If you have a kitchen table with chairs, can you pull the chairs in when entertaining?

With the sofa and desk already having fixed dimensions, I’d try the different layouts to scale before buying the extra seating. A 75" TV plus another sofa or chairs could change the walking space quite a bit.

You can recreate the room and move the actual-size furniture around in 2D/3D here:

https://homdera.com/en/tools/home-planner

I’d test your second layout with two smaller chairs instead of a loveseat. It might give you the extra seating without making the room feel crowded.

Ask for a sample to test the limits. You can usually talk to a tech person at the company during a slow time. Ask about the country of origin. It would work in a powder room for sure. Possibly a couple deet of tile next to the shower and under a freestanding tub.

We have experience with LifeProof Engineered Hardwood throughout (including bathrooms). It's been over a year and holding up very well.

When I went to our local Home Depot store, they had an extensive display of LifeProof LVP products. I had to look across the aisle into the engineered wood section the see the LifeProof engineered hardwood display.

I have site finished solid hardwood floors throughout my main level + European Oak engineered wood floors on upper level - except for three bathrooms on upper level (where there are showers/tubs) + laundry and mudroom on main level. I do have them in my powder room + kitchen. They've been installed for a LONG time - and only had one issue (refrigerator water line not installed correctly - small area of floor was wet for awhile - floors went back to normal after drying out).

Have you considered installing solid or engineered wood floors throughout your home except for in the bathroom/laundry room areas?

Noboby knows anything about the capabilities of the mystery finisher your designer has experience with. Finishing isn't high tech except for UV cured tpcoats. which are pretty low but at least tech. Visit, talk and look at his/her samples. Retain inspection and validation in the agreement. I'd buy an unfinished door from your manufacturer for approval. Maybe differerent tones and matte and satin strips to test. You need that door because differentbwods all finish differebtly. To get what you want will workout best IF you are willing to put in a lot of effort beyond the ordinary.

Good morning PPF, Design Interior South, and others! I posted our kitchen layout for feedback so would love your input if you have time. Thanks!

Hi all, I have mock ups of the kitchen with differnt combos of stain, white, green.. should I upload here or the other post re: kitchen layout? thanks! Design Interior South- would love your thoughts! thx!

I think your suggestion would work with a deep seat spec your drawing seems to show. Deeper seat is often an option. Add in a large ottoman for trays and lunging. Lexington Furniture Co. represents over 50 US manufacturers at drop ship pricing.

@beagysmallsI think the sectional is too large for this room. It takes up most of the available space and may make the room feel cramped and difficult to move through.

I would consider placing one long sofa under the bay window and mounting the TV on the opposite wall, where the artwork is currently hanging. Blinds or roller shades on the window could help prevent glare on the TV screen.

Then I would place one swivel chair in the corner where the TV currently stands. If you need another chair, it could go on the other side of the fireplace or nearby, as long as the walkway remains clear. This arrangement would provide plenty of seating without filling the entire room with one oversized piece of furniture.

I have a similar sized room, although narrower, without a fireplace or tv, but with 5 doors/doorways. No sectional; it will overwhelm the room. We have a loveseat and 4 chairs = seating for 6. Works great and can have multiple arrangements.

Your description of the process appears out of sink. Two coats of seal go on then multiple coats of HD. Water-based first seal coat raises the grain and this is sanded and cleaned..

G & S Floor Service

Only issue is the bottom right corner. Everything else is normal. A second coat will help seal and even things out. The image I pointed out, looks like there was a contamination, spot fix first.

Trmove the backsplash and choose tile the same light white tone as in the granite. Do the work yourself. You can then plan to solve function problems with a broader reno in the future. That takes extensive study and planning.

Yep, it probably has,. unfortunately.

Moving away from a really busy stone pattern can definitely make the kitchen feel a lot calmer and more modern. High-end laminates have come a long way and are much easier on the eyes if you want a cleaner, more uniform look.

You're close to Amish woodworkers in PA.

What does the damage look like to the top of the table? Please post a photo showing the damage.

Question - do you want to keep the table with the existing finish on the base? Does the top need to be stained wood?

There are options that aren't super expensive. My sister had the old veneer stripped from her table and new veneer added. The cost was around $500. Initially she wanted to have the veneer repaired in a few places - however, the quote to repair the veneer was basicially the same as having all of the veneer replaced. She was able to change the stain color of the table top by having new veneer added also.

Hi, I saw your update and understand that you are specifically looking for someone interested in making a solid wood solution rather than repairing the existing veneer.


This is something we could potentially make for you. We are GREYGE, an Italian furniture design company, and we work with Italian craftsmen specializing in solid wood and custom-made pieces.


The only point I would like to make clear from the beginning is that we are based in Italy and you are in Connecticut, so shipping alone would be approximately €300. If that is acceptable to you, we would be very happy to look at the project.


If you can share the exact dimensions of the existing top and leaves, a few photos of the table and the underside hardware, and your preferred wood or finish, we can evaluate the best solution and give you a more precise proposal.


We work with solid mahogany, walnut and ash, and custom dimensions are possible.

River White can have garnet deposits for patches and specs of burgundy. It has a geolgical 'gneiss' classification. Other granites to look at include White Valley, Viscount White, Copenhagen White and Silver Clpud. They have veining without speckles.

Hi, I have a couple of questions for the OP if you wouldn't mind answering (if you see this). Did you decide to get this slab? Did you confidentally identify it and what was your determination? Is that the flooring leaning up against it that you are using? What are the other colors you're working with? I'm asking these because we are looking at a similar stone this weekend and they insist it's an "Iceberg Cristallo Quartzite" (not quartz) so it should be quite hard - a key shouldn't scratch it. Our slab is perfect with our colors (white, navy, warm walnut stain) and we don't know what floor works well with it. Are you backlighting it (if it's Cristallo)? What else can you share? Thanks!

janeaklem, we did not buy the slabs. We were put off foremost by the softness of the stone and secondarily by the perceived dishonesty of this particular stone yard. Thankfully, we have many in our city so it's no big loss. We didn't get further identification of the stone, but it very clearly and easily scratched with my car key, which is one of the "inverse" kind that hides in the fob and doesn't have the jagged teeth like a normal house key. I've since tried numerous granite, quartzite, and (man-made) quartz slabs with the same key and none have come close to scratching.

The wood leaning upright is a solid maple being used in the custom cabinets. This one is a shelf from our existing primary closet and is therefore the same maple but a lower grade -- hence the difference in pattern and color across it. The cabinets will be uniformly like the lighter, clearer color portion on the left -- natural select hard maple with clear coat. The flooring is the piece laying flat like flooring and is CoreTec Grande Makkah Oak LVP. The wall paint sample is a custom mix color matched to go with existing furniture, rugs, and artwork. Our pulls will all be minimalist Top Knobs Latham pulls in stainless steel in three sizes depending on where it's going. The appliances we selected all had panel-ready options but we elected stainless instead. We have a lot of cabinets (wood), so stainless will break things up a bit. We're doing a 42" wide custom hood painted same as the walls, using a Wolf hood liner and remote blower.

Lighting standard will be 3000-3100K high-CRI LED with flicker-free drivers and dim-to-warm down to around 2200K. I have a special car detailing handheld (battery) light that I bring to stone yards and anywhere else we look at color since they tend to have crappy low-CRI high-K blueish lighting. It can do 2700, 3500, 4500, 5500, and 6500K with a very even bright rectangular pattern. I highly recommend if you are picky about color/lighting!

We are still looking but think we have finally found a quieter, warmer Taj Mahal quartzite that looks pretty similar to the "Cristallo" shown in my OP, although without the translucent effect. And, thankfully, the yard has enough matching slabs of it (our fabricator indicated we should make the yard send 5 slabs but they may be able to get away with only 4, depending on matching/etc). We're planning to do the countertops and full-height backsplash with all the same material.

We are still keeping an eye out for a true Cristallo quartzite, but I don't think it's going to happen. Even if we got a Cristallo, we would NOT backlight it. I don't want the hassle and risk of lighting failures over time and frankly, I think it looks a little 1980's cheesy and commercial. Also, our preferred style -- Scandi modern -- calls for low-key mild ("quiet") everything, and a backlighted Cristallo is not quiet!

Bottom line, I would ask questions, question everything, and key scratch test any slab you get serious about. I also found my paid ChatGPT and paid CoPilot AI accounts very useful for uploading slab pics to. Try prompting "Examine this countertop slab and identify areas of filler and any structural or other areas of concern." AI can also be helpful in analyzing color scheme options. A downside is most modern camera phones (iPhone) computationally adjust pictures, tweaking color automatically, and it can make a slab look totally different on the screen vs to your eye.

No glass will be least costly. If that exterior space will be your primary cavas maybe larger but fixed would reduce the total.

Structurally a header transverses the window opening sized to support the load above and void anything in the center. 5.5./18 ft.

Climate and sun come into consideration. West facing will require shade and South can need a Summer overhang. Reflexive 366 soft coating for the interior of one pane of a double glazed insulated unit can help performance. You can choose one segment as a swing opening glass door. A wider center fixed and a fixed other side the width of the door side.

With dynamic landscaping windows to the floor will flow the view and feeling out to your work.

There's new tech if you have a cold climate at times. Vaxuum insulated glass is better insulation than triple pane.

" Vaxuum insulated glass is better insulation than triple pane. "

At what cost? Vacuum insulated glass is super expensive still now today and very few actually offer it. While great theoretically it really is still not ready for primetime.

The OP is not in the US.

Panasonic Glanevir is available through 2400 trained installers with government subsidies to upgrade single pane common in Japan. Panasonic uses precision machinery idled when they discontinued plasma tv production. This allows flatter tempered glass production. Better for the higher performing soft 366 radiant reflective coating. They offer annealed versions for windows with no sun exposure at a lower cost. They are actively ;incensing their tech and partnering to produce vig in Europe.

Know the price then decide your priorities.

If you have the view, no grids.

My vote would be to keep the white windows and the traditional muntins for your home