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NOTHING in this bathroom is staying. The entire bathroom is being renovated.
That doesn’t look like normal wear to me. If you can actually lift or flake the coating with your fingernail after 10 days, I’d be questioning how well it bonded to the concrete. Prep could definitely be part of it, but moisture or the way the coating was applied/cured could also cause problems. I’d ask the contractor exactly what product they used and how the floor was prepped before letting them just touch up those spots.
" If you can actually lift or flake the coating with your fingernail after 10 days, I’d be questioning how well it bonded to the concrete. "
Charleston Slab Co TWO year old post...........................
Dom Dain 3 year old post..............................
What ever happened to this building?
Need someting like sconces on the wall, at least at the vanity, high hat type ceiling lights are seldom enough especially in a bathroom.
agree with millworkman, but the huge mirror will need to come down for electrical to keep sconces in a ideal place to enhance lighting.
Overhead lights are typically adequate for most vanity use. For "facework," a front-lit mirror is better, as back-lit mirrors are only for ambient light and to highlight the wall and can also exacerbate face shadows.
Sconces (wall mounted fixtures at head height) are another option for front-lit.
Also, if using smaller 2" or 3" recessed lights, they provide a narrower, more limited beam spread, where the sweet spot of light intensity might create more shadows depending on where your face hits that sweet spot.
For the shower it needs it's own light(s) within the footprint.
" It looks like it would only control a few degrees of movement at the end of the door’s end of travel. "
Looks like is not how it always is in reality. I woiuld try it as it will be the cheapest and easist solution.
Ok, it looks like this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Onward-3-1-2-in-x-3-1-2-in-Brass-Self-Closing-Full-Mortise-Spring-Hinge-52821BR/202206108
Does this affect how the hinge pin door stops would work?
Does this affect how the hinge pin door stops would work?
Those are a poor choice for this application. They are intended for light weight interior doors.
Square but personally I like the solid better.
The square look best. The solid looks good too, but if there are no other windows in the garage the door windows serve a purpose!
Square, no hinges, or no windows, no hinges. The less busy the better, as your house already has enough visual elements.
How much are you looking for? Where di you get what you have now? Where have you looked? What is it, post the name and pertinent info rather than asking us to enlarge and read a sideways label.
So you are converting a beyond commonplace 5 x 8 bath from a tub/shower to a zero entry shower only glam bath: )
Forget the "cool" and put a curb on the shower. I care not what contraptions.....and the plumbing goes on the 30" wall, an interior wall.
Note. It's fine to have Chat create inspo's . Just too darn bad they are not always practicval in reality as you mop up all the water on the floor......
"These are ChatGPT generated images to give you an idea, though some items, placements, & measurements are inaccurate. ..................."
Ya think? : )
Wayfair and or Amazon. Or tell us what you have available near you. My opinion that one is kind of awful.
Amazon?no, is not near the quality I am looking for, this table is marble!
At the least post pics in daylite with the curtains open.
If those cabinets are melamine you are not effectively painting them.
There are lots of ways to improve for not a lot of money. You mentioned you like the wall color but it’s not pulling the room together or working with the wood doors. The biggest bang for your buck is paint (walls and entry door). Step back, decide on a look and slowly make changes (try looking on line for ideas). It’s a great room to have some fun and here’s one example.
Came here to say what Chispa said above. Those cabinets are not doing you any favours since they are so small and the collection of items on top is wasting valuable storage space.
Look on Marketplace or Kijiji for some wood cabinets that someone is removing from a kitchen reno. You can likely find something for a very reasonable price that would be taller. Wood cabinets can be easily painted. Or maybe the wood colour would suit the room better than white since your doors and trim are wood.
Change the curtains and consider painting the interior side of the white metal door. I'd consider repainting the entire room and the white door.
Does anyone actually sit on that bench? Or is it shoe storage as well as the dark cabinet on the opposite wall? My vote would be for one tall cabinet to store shoes and backpacks etc in the drop zone. If you have smaller children bringing backpacks in, hooks at their level can help keep them off surfaces or being dumped in a heap on the floor.
Context is key. Post pics.
Trying to post pics...
Bathroom is long and narrow and the vanity will be in the alcove on the left when you first enter the room. The toilet will be straight ahead (couldn't change the awkward layout) The shower is tucked in the back left alcove. The vanity is fine, it is the vanity top that is the big disappointment. It was supposed to be white quartz with grey veining, but it is a cream color with very faint grey veining. There is a piece of the marble floor and shower tile on top of the quartz for reference. I cannot return the vanity and I really have a hard time thinking about replacing the top, imagining it will be out of my budget. I really appreciate any additional thoughts as to how to make this work. Thank you so much!!
If you feel you cannot live with the current vanity counter, take a floor tile to a marble fabricator and ask to look at remnants or if they have any small slabs. Sometimes marble slabs can be very small (smaller than granite or quartzite) and get a price. You may be surprised by how little it may cost - especially if you can find a remnant piece that will work.
Many fabricators have a large selection of remnant pieces. You may not have luck finding the exact marble match to your floor - but the counter could be another marble or stone that would be a closer match to your floor and help you feel more comfortable with overall finishes for your room.
OK and? A good quality paint job will not be inexpensive. Are your this is not a laminate of some sort on the face? If so it may not paint well.
Whatever shade of white the little shelves are? paint the wall behind the same and find a similar creamy white backsplash tile. embrace the lighter feel you have going. no need to paint the cabinets… they are really fine for a small kitchen… better than average
Assuming the island cabinets are the same color as the others, my choice would be to paint the walls and not the cabinets.
Is that two different vinyl colors? If so that is not a good look in my opinion. I realizs this is only the shed but looks very bland and blah.
Yes two different colors- which didnt come out as i hoped but not terrible. The blandness will be rectified with landscaping accents and potentially decor of some type on the upper side as that can be seen from the road.
The two tone actually works more than people think once the landscaping fills in. The eye stops reading the siding as the main feature and the roofline becomes the anchor instead. That roof color is doing a lot of heavy lifting here and honestly a busier siding choice might have competed with it rather than complemented it.
How about hanging a huge blackboard/magnectic board over it? Or hang a tapestry over it? You can remove the doorknob.
DiGioia Designs OP never came back in FOUR years and has zero posts so I doubt you will get an answer.
nelliebean FOUR year old post with zero OP replies, do not think they are looking for advice any longer.
If the glass is not treated from the factory there in my mind is a good part of the issue. Diamond Fusion from my experience is hit and miss in its effectiveness and personally have never recommended it. The ONLY one I will ever recommend is Showerguard, it is made directly in the glass. Aftermarket products are an issue in many thing and protectants that you apply at home are all mediocre at best.
If you really want glass doors, live with these. If they still do not work out, when you can, research, (you know what to look for now), and run everything on a post on here. Then buy.
I messed up on tile for baths.
Sherry8aNorthAL:you are 100% correct on the best path forward Thanks for words of support (so embarrassing that you cannot edit and correct spelling in the app!!!)
I dont mean too sound rude but there is a reason he was priced lower, also why on earth would you not want the house inspected im pretty sure thats illegal. he also has legal rights to your home if you dont pay im pretty sure. next time go with the quility guys and not the chuck in the truck.
" I dont mean too sound rude but there is a reason he was priced lower "
matt brubaker 17 year old post...................................
PIctures from the exterior? You may know what the situation is but from the pics alone we are not familar with the layout to even really know the situation.
Maybe put more matching ribbed poly/acrylic sheets, on top each gate leaf that moves with the gate.
Get a whole bunch of paint chips to narrow down to 8 colors. Order those 8 colors in the larger Samplize sample. Narrow down to 3 colors and test those 3 with real paint on all side of the house.
Narrowing down my off-white exterior paint color ...
They are both ugly in my opinion. You state Florida and your making everything dark? The kitchen does nopt that there is any sort of reasonable function. Kitchen design is more than colors.
Have you tried Ikea…if not maybe look into/meet with a kitchen designer (hopefully there is a location nearby)…your $50,000 may go further and their overall advice and guidance will also be a big asset. If getting too close to your top budget, consider less expensive concessions, ie: backsplash, hardware, lighting…that can be ungraded down the road.
Hi No was not looking at IKEA kitchens the kitchen I showed you was 100,000. The one Emily designed was at least 150,000 is what I was saying. Putting an IKEA kitchen in that house is not really an option. Which is why I asked what cabinet makers do people on here like.Kitchen was 40k, appliances were 35k, stone was 20k lights 2.5k, floor adjustment 2k, plumbing was 5k, electrical was 4-5k and sink faucet etc was around 4k.
" I was told by the seller that it was quartzite so I tested a sample… and this is what resulted "
Absolutely etching, and this is definitely more marble than quartzite as noted above, most white quartzites are closer to marble. And honestly the seller might have been told it was quatzite and took the wholesaler at his word.
Many of the "white" or gray quartzites are really dolomite/marble. They might be hard like quartzite, but are porous like marble/dolomite and will etch just like your sample. It would need to be sealed during installation and then at regular intervals. Sealing won't guarantee that you will never get stains or etching.
Turns out you know more about stones than the slab yard salesperson!!
Never believe what they tell you ... do your own research and testing.
Regular sealants will only prevent staining not etches. The Etch is not due to the porousness of a stone it is a chemical break down as acid eats through calcites. A resin like coating is the only thing to prevent etching.
Painted table and chairs will not age well. I would use them as is or if you absolutely hate that, buy new factory finished.
The table was a gift from my parents 40+ years ago,since it is a simple table I would like to make it work. i am thinking of sanding the wholentable to raw wood now. Chairs are very solid maple and honestly most chairs now are not made nearly as well. i need to make these work. i want to paint now as there is not much else I can do during construction. natural wood table and soft black/taupe?
You should be aware of how difficult maple is to stain. It's a very hard wood and can be blotchy when stained. Maple also has a tendency to yellow when it is left in its natural state. I would look for tutorials on how to stain maple effectively.
I do not see a gap indicating the sink cutout ius too small, I think the OP is assuming the sink flange is supposed top be all the way to the 4" riser/backsplash.
Thank you for all of the responses! After reading through the comments, I realize I probably didn’t explain the situation as clearly as I could have in my original post.
The approximately 1 cm gap behind the sink is intentional and is supposed to be there. There is already silicone underneath the sink from the original installation, so from what I understand from the comments, water shouldn’t be able to leak through into the cabinet. My question was really about how, or whether, the exposed gap along the back of the sink needs to be finished or sealed.
When the new sink was installed, a full bead of silicone was applied all the way around the sink. Some of it was underneath the edge of the sink, but there was also a visible bead along the outside edge. The silicone was very thick and cloudy-looking. While he was installing the sink, I removed the excess that was visible along the front and sides, but I left the bead along the back until the following day, it had dried. I then removed the visible silicone along the back as well.
The new sink had a slightly smaller flange than the original sink, so the area along the entire back edge was already scratched/etched where the new sink didn't cover the same area. When I removed the silicone from the back, almost all of the color/finish along that entire strip came off with it, leaving the scratches and etched area visible all along the back of the sink. I ended up using several shades of nail polish to touch up the entire strip so that it would blend in with the surrounding finish, which is what you see in the photo.
It sounds from the comments that I may not actually need to put anything in this gap, and that as long as I keep water from running into it, it is fine as it is. If that’s the case, that certainly makes things easier! I was mainly concerned that I needed to put some type of small silicone bead or other seal along the exposed edge.
My only remaining concern is that if water does get into that area and I wipe it up, the nail polish touch-up can come off. I’m trying to avoid having to repeatedly wipe the area or redo the touch-up.
Thank you again to everyone who took the time to respond and offer suggestions. I really appreciate the professional advice and the different perspectives, it has helped me better understand what is actually necessary.
Thank you toscana26 that explains it a lot better. My personal opinon is to put in a splash guard on the back of the sink. Since you do get water there as is the indicator of a towel I would put in a splash guard that will certainly help.
What is the balance of the interior hardware finish? What finish are the door hinges? Do you have exterior lighting and what finish? Pics would help us help you as context is key.
The balance of the interior is satin nickle, but I thought you had to replace everthing as a set? Can we keep the interior while satin nickle while replacing the worn exterior with something like antiqued or brushed brass? The overhead light fixture is a dark bronze. This is home is traditional, not contemporary.
What drove the choice for MUlberry ? I need to see the house please
Context is key.........................
Mostly history and aesthetics now, not structure.
Divided panes started because large sheets of glass were expensive and hard to make. Once float glass became standard, dividers became a style choice. Many "divided" units today are a single pane with grilles applied on it or set between the panes.
What actually constrains an interior transom:
Safety glazing. Glass in a door must be tempered or laminated. Glass near a door is only treated as hazardous when its bottom edge is below 60" off the floor (and within the distance-from-door limits). A transom over a standard 6'-8" door usually sits above that line. Confirm against your jurisdiction's adopted code edition.
Framing. On a bearing wall, the header has to span the full opening above the transom. The ceiling height minus header depth caps how tall the transom can be. On a non-bearing wall this mostly goes away.
Sound. Fixed glass blocks sound better than an operable transom, and laminated glass does better still.
A single pane reads cleaner with modern trim. Dividers suit traditional casing and older houses.
Grout the tile.
Caulk where the tile meets the tub and where the tub meets the floor tile. (for a flexible joint)
BUT, tape off the edge with painters tape when you caulk for a clean slim caulk line.
Looks like a very nice caulk job, except for the color.
same answer as your other post.......................
How about some photos of the space?
Are you replacing a flooring material? Match the floor with the rest of the building for a seamless look. You can always add an area rug.
" Floor? "
Yes a floor is a good idea, even in an office.
" due the fact my contractor has purchased charcoal roof shingles ."
Did you approve charcoal roof shingles? He bought them does not mean that you bought them. Tell him you did not chose he did and you do not want that color. Your house, your money at the end of the day.
Shingles are already bought.
Unused buildings materials are easily returned.
Try to decide on all your exterior colors/finishes/materials now, not one at a time.
What brand/model of windows are you getting?
I would do black the bronze my next choice but charcoal and black just seems to be a better choice and in the pics you post it has a nice clean look
@Dani Martin A rain screen is a best practice for any cladding you are putting on your home, so I would consider adding that cost to whatever product you choose to go with. It feels like an added expense at a time when you are already incurring costs, but you want to get several decades out of this product and, more importantly, let any water that gets behind it it escape from the building envelope. Based on some of the comments in this thread, however, there's no chance I'd use Boral TruExterior. I'm glad I sent mine back after taking delivery — even with the 25% restocking fee.
" For these reasons, likely going with Hardie V groove. "
Hardie will most likely require a drainable building paper as well and even if they do not it is always a good idea to use one.
Context is key. Post up pics of you truly want advice.
Great idea! Extra space to utilize as you need, and it's FREE!
There are many reasons for two front doors...obviously, yours was built to have two parlors. Maybe one for every day living; the other used for company. The uses are interesting; you can google.
Could you sketch out or take a photo of the side that has your bedroom, bathroom and kitchen? It's a bit confusing.
Is the house Craftsman style?
Waiting to see floor plan. Make sure it is done in scale and shows every window and doorway and where those lead . Every measurement clearly marked Posted here in jpeg format in a comment
I would not worry if they are "out of style" or not. If you like them and not the colors of the box, use one. Noone will come arrest you and confiscate the cover, lol.
Check out thrift stores and estate sales. I prefer the covers, too. The cardboard tissue boxes never coordinate! And I have found several really nice ones, at thrift and estate sales. Be patient.
Go look on Amazon, also. Lots of options.
Context is key and more goes into the flooring color than just the wall colors. Post up pics for the best advice.
I agree with Patricia on the 2 large planters as it.
I love this style of house! There are lots of great choices for smaller shrubs , such as azalea (reblooming varieties), rhododendron, boxwoods and possibly roses that would work well in your landscape.
Don't forget to add lighting to enjoy the space at night.
Ai changed the steps and the side yard space, so ignore that piece.
Here is I adjusted lush landscape
Probably not installed plumb, level and square. Context is key, maybe post up a few pics.
What is the height of the window? Changing to a door make make this very epxemsive if the header height and wall need to be reframed or a custom height door ordered.....................
With the scope possibilities expanded, let's go beyomd the added framing structure for the screened porch and reroofing. Remove the wondow wall with no dor. The doorwall with screens is moved outward to the outer porch elevation.
Before choosing door style, sort out the four things that decide cost and difficulty:
1. Header. The new opening is taller and usually wider than the window, so the header and the framing below the sill both change. Find out what that wall carries (roof, ceiling joists, a second floor). That sets header size and whether new jack studs need a proper bearing point below. This is a permit job almost everywhere.
2. Water at the threshold. Cutting down to the floor exposes the rim and sill plate and puts the threshold close to grade or deck level. A sloped sill pan and flashing tied into the existing weather barrier matter more than which door you buy. This is where these conversions leak.
3. Glass. All glass in a door, and glass beside it that sits low and close to the door, must be safety glazing. New units ship that way; salvaged or custom units may not.
4. Lead. A 1948 house should be assumed to have lead paint on that trim. The contractor should be EPA RRP-certified.
Also check the wall below the window for plumbing, ductwork or wiring before you commit to a width.
Show actual pics from all thee angles above, NOT AI as as you state it is not accurate.
I guess my first question after seeing your actual house in better pics is where will the truck and boat go ?
Adding a fence is part of the plan. Unforunately, the city only allows a 4ft fence for the first 25ft. The sits back exactly 25ft from the sidewalk. In the recent past I've used prop items to simulate the layout which is how I came down to those two layouts. I also agree that the photos look cold. Lots of greenery and warmth are to be added to soften the environment. Perhaps use wood instead of mason.
With respect to the front door becoming lost with the couryard entrance, I was just wondering if it makes sense to do a floor to celing panel(or similar) like the one in the photo below to frame the door from the outside.
The house is painted Sherwin Williams North Star(light airy blue w/slate gray undertone); the patio is light tan travertine and the driveway is an ugly concret slab. I plan to work on the driveway after my layout dilema is sorted and implemented.
The boat will remain in the same general area. The panel running perpendicular to the gates towards the street will not be used. That is something that was one of the reasons I mentioned a language barrier issue made me cut ties with the designer. I can easily park the truck on the other side in front of the garage. Although, I also want the option to park it where you see in the photos. That's another pro to the pertico gate.
There is this page as well a a ton more if you put the pertinent info into Google.
I would not want a bedroom closet door right next to a shower, let alone 2 closet doors. Can you move that to the nedroom and enter from their? For a curbless shower you will need to sloope the floor joists system. How is the floor constructed and can you get to the joists to work? What is the the floor joist system and have you had anyone check if altering them is possible?
@partim here's a drawing of the MBR layout adjacent to the bath and closet. There are only 2 walls that will fit a king bed. We previously had the bed on the window wall and it was terrible as the bed blocked the entry from the living room and one had to walk around the bed to get to the bath. Guess the house has some design issues that we didn't really pay enough attention to when we bought it. Love the house though, so no regrets on the purchase.
@Jeff Grenz I had briefly considered adding closet to shower end of space, but with your comment, I’m going to give it more consideration. It would reduce the footprint of the bathroom, and extra storage is always nice. i’m not ready to give up on a bathtub yet, so will need to see if i can still wok in tub and shower somehow.
If your 400 Series windows are still in good shape, I’d compare the actual differences in insulation, glass options, and frame before switching. Series A may make sense if energy efficiency is a priority, while E is more of a premium option. For a brick house, I’d also consider how each one will look with the existing exterior.
Alex John year old post
Yes.
For noise control, perpendicular.
depends on what else you'll include in the yard along with the pool... a pool house/cabana, patio, garden, planting any trees to hinder the sunlight on the pool?
Sight unseen, the tops are normally the star of the show. A backsplah is a small area and "framing it with tile", will not give you the look you are thinking of as the area is really too small.
I would use a flat plain tile. I think those would look way to busy as a backsplash. For me at least.
Why would you want that tile it makes the whole idea busy and a real PITA to clean for zero benefit .
What negativity herein! This is an amazing idea which looks aesthetic and has worked for many! Those who do not soak in the tub are missing out on the health benefits! And, for those with a vivid imagination about splashing soap everywhere, what planet are you on! A wife is not a child! Go for it! A dust mop will take care of any residual dust on the floor!
adoroduo 4 year old post................
I would replace it all with an 8" cedar clapboard and use a solid color stain for the entire house, ONE color.
I like a subtle difference in color for a Craftsman. These are examples, but I'd probably go with a different set of colors.
First off, I like the house you posted, except I would bring down the darker color on the sides and just leave the porch white.
I do like this combo. Lighter and brighter than expected on a Craftsman. Exact colors are listed.
Context is key.
I searched 35Wx25H venetian chandeliers on Pinterest. You’ll see lots of choices and some come in different sizes, ie: the one below comes within your measurements. With a 10” ceiling, be sure 25H will not be too low.
It’s hard for anyone to know the effect you have in mind, as ”quiet” doesn’t help very much.…you may have to compromise given the dimensions you need and I’d look for scones after chandelier is installed.
bathroom niche
" bathroom niche "
I would think 12" x 24" tile would be too large for a niche.
Yes, they would look best placed either vertically or horizontally. Context is key, no decision is made in a vacuum. Floor tiles? Size of the bathroom? Size of the shower? Glass shower enclosure?
It depends on the tile design and overall design of the bathroom. It might also just come down to personal preference.
Show the tile, show the bathroom, the layout and other elements.
Context is key. How do we know what "other woods" are without pictures?
You can also look at laminate which is a lot thicker and now more waterproof than before, Flooret direct to consumer Signature nicro bevel. Nakan
From my perspective you will never get as good a finish on site as from the factory. I would pick your cabinets and a finish they offer, most have many, many stain colors available. Factory finish is always preferred.
Good morning PPF, Design Interior South, and others! I posted our kitchen layout for feedback so would love your input if you have time. Thanks!
Hi all, I have mock ups of the kitchen with differnt combos of stain, white, green.. should I upload here or the other post re: kitchen layout? thanks! Design Interior South- would love your thoughts! thx!
" Is it safe to drill into this type of metal-faced door, especially since it’s the door between the house and attached garage? "
No, it is a metal fire door, so no you should not drill into it.
It might be better to find another location for the mirror you want to hang.
Context is key. Post up pics of your home and the furnishings as nothing is chosen in a vacuum.
Here's some info.
^^^^, plain white tile, look at subway tiles.
Gorgeous conters and cabinets. How about a warm off white/creme that matches/blends with your floor?
@Diana Bier Yeah, that's just a kitchen mat that was very inexpensive from BJ's. I'm okay with it for now. At least that's something that can be easily changed later. lol
I like what you have now better than either of those choices.
Have you already ordered your new taupe sofa? If yes, I wouldn't make a decision re: your fireplace until your sofa is in the room. It would be a waste of $$ to have made any sort of change to the fireplace surround/mantel/over-mantel if the new taupe sofa doesn't work with the stone/tile/paint color you've used.
If you are just considering purchasing a taupe sofa, I would have fabric samples in the room in order to help with your decision re: stone/paint/etc. If the fireplace will be your focal point (which it should be), I would wait to order a new sofa until I had the fireplace wall completed.
I can't tell what the goal is for the room's overall feel. Changing the fireplace to ledgestone would move in a rustic, casual direction, while replacing the leather sofa with a linen one would move in a more formal direction, in keeping with the chairs and existing fireplace. We can't see enough to know which fits better with the rest of your home. Which would you like better?
Here's a rendering that changes the sofa to linen, plus a few other tweaks (the major one being turning on the lights), so you can see what you think about keeping the formality:
Yep, either close off the opening or move the stove. With the opening there you are essentially peeing into the wind with whatever you do. Nothing will work well.
Listen to and look up some of kaseki's posts on kitchen ventilation - he is well known here for that. Assuming your area complies with IRC (most do in the US), lookup M1503, including M1503.6... Makeup air is often a big ordeal if you want to temper the replacement air. Putting a range in an island was one of the worst decisions I made... much more airflow is needed for the range hood to work correctly..
I have to agree with the below comment---I'd probably close off the opening and vent to the attic and then outside. Seriously study the venting requirements for this particular model of stove. I am renovating a kitchen right now and am getting rid of my gas stove for ventilation reasons, sadly. Gas is brilliant, but it does require robust ventilation. Have you looked at Yale Appliances? https://www.yaleappliance.com/catalog/ventilation
Lose the double doors and go with a 42" wide door with 2 sidelites. I would also recommend not moving the entry. What brand composite decking are you looking at?
Cedar will change colors quite a bit when cleaned and sealed, then slowly get dark again. I think this two tone idea is your best bet for looking like it belongs.
My light gray Trex gets dirty. I'd go for darker.
Only issue is the bottom right corner. Everything else is normal. A second coat will help seal and even things out. The image I pointed out, looks like there was a contamination, spot fix first.
" Choosen sintered stone over marbles and granite because my ID recommended this due to higher heat resistance. "
I would still never put a pot direct from the stove to the tops, they are not really any better or worse than other stone for thermal shock. Also the edges of sintered stone are much more prone to chipped edges than marble.
I might be the one who was mean but we are all adults I hope. I still think the choices in granite far out weigh the choices in plastic quartz and pretty close to bullet proof too.Sintered stone not ideal in a used kitchen it chips actually quite easily . I have never seen a fake stone look like real
Am leaning toward the two lighter choices you have presented. They just seem to fit better with the cabinetry.
Maybe only aesthetics. But it seems you're missing siding over concrete, or rockwool. Hard to tell what it is.
" You definitely need to post photos of the the slabs you've listed in your post. Most people aren't going to search to find the countertops. "
I would also post pics of the exact slabs you have seen as there are plenty of complaints about older samples and the color being different, etc. Also the "graining" will never be the same as the quartz slabs are poured.
Ok thank you for your input!