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WOW...an HE4T. I totally forgot about that name.
Consumer reports recommends lots of LG models.
Speed Queen is still a good high quality brand of course but very expense.
Electrolux has been very good to me and I'd most likely get another, (mine is 11 years old).
Samsung is not a favorite but the Bespoke line might be turning that around.
I hear on the internet GE isn't doing great with their front loaders.
Sadly Whirlpool's are not the same quality anymore.
Miele is a compact front loader and supposed to be a high quality machine.

I love my LG WM4200 washer and DLEX 4200 dryer. I recognized the HE4T model immediately.

SQ has a good top load model. TC5. It has the same build and wash action as the 2017 and earlier AWN432. A good option could be to find an 2017 or so AWN432. Simple with plenty of life remaining. Look on Craigslist and Marketplace. $700 in 2017. Maytag has announced a new model to compete in durability with the TC5. They say a 30 year life for $1500. MTW8305T in white or steel colors. These are top loaders. The SQ front load FF7 uses a belt drive and inverter to vary spin speed of the 1hp motor. More commercial design than direct drive LG and Samsung. And largely unchanged from earlier models to look for.
Seeing this thread is still getting comments, I want to add the technician's perspective since I've fixed a lot of these Electrolux/Frigidaire units with the 'wakes up and beeps on its own' problem.
When the main control board was replaced and the problem persisted, the board probably wasn't the issue. On these machines the random wake-up is most often caused by:
1. The door switch or door lock assembly sending intermittent signals - the control thinks someone pressed a button or opened the door, so it wakes up.
2. The user interface (touchpad) board - moisture or a failing touch sensor can register phantom touches. Very common on front-loaders in humid laundry rooms.
3. Loose or corroded wiring harness connections between the UI board and main control, especially the ground. Vibration from the spin cycle works connectors loose over time.
4. The main control board itself - but only after ruling out 1-3.
What I'd do in the laundry room: unplug the machine, pull the top panel, and check the UI board connections for corrosion or moisture. Then test the door switch for consistent continuity. Most of the time, the fix is the UI board or door switch, not the main board - which is why replacing the main board didn't change anything for the original poster.
For the person who commented recently still fighting this - those are the two parts I'd look at first.
If you're in the Abilene area, we diagnose exactly these control issues on washers: https://abilenetxappliancerepairs.com/washer-repair-abilene-tx/