Hardwood floor need shine
Kommentare (54)
ahelton142
Ursprünglicher Verfasservor 8 JahrenCan you suggest a good cleaner ? They are no where near needing to be redone at this time . Just need a little more shine ! I've been using pinesol for wood floors on them . I have an inside dog so I try to keep them clean as he sheds white hair ALOT
PROULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 Jahren@ahelton142 you may have 'shot yourself in the foot' already for the reasons cancork mentioned. The pine sol has absorbed into the finish preventing a 'recoat' which is what you need. I'm afraid you will NEED to refinish and you should be aware you may still have problems with a poly type finish. I believe your only choice now is to refinish ( those old 5-6-7 bar oak parquet is 3/8") and use a penetrating finish. I do that all the time with out problems on old parquet.- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 JahrenONLY USE WHAT THE FINISH MANUFACTERER RECCOMMENDS. I DONT CARE WHAT ANYONE TELLS YOU ALL THE OFF THE SHELF STUFF IS CRAP AND ANYONE HOW RECCOMMENDS USING IY HAS NOT SEEN THE DAMAGE IT DOES WHEN IT COMES TIME TO REFINISH!!!!!
PERIOD. ahelton142
Ursprünglicher Verfasservor 8 JahrenOk so what do they recommend lol I have no idea where this came from or really what it is ? I just know it was installed when the house was built in 1979 ! We just bought the house little over 2 years ago .ahelton142
Ursprünglicher Verfasservor 8 JahrenI'm so glad I asked before doing this and now I won't use anymore pine sol . Just need to know what to use now- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 Jahren@ahelton142 is it a polyurethane finish? If so Glitsa makes a cleaner as does duraseal and woodpecker(ya ya). Make sure you read there labels first . ahelton142
Ursprünglicher Verfasservor 8 JahrenI'm pretty sure it is a polyurethane finish ! How do I know for sure?
classysass
vor 8 JahrenOkay. Those admonitions are even more stern than I expected. I had been warned by a floor guy years ago about using Murphy Oil Soap as a cleaner, which I did not end up using. Then I used Bona for cleaning for several years but I never liked the filmy look when using that. Now, I only use water on a microfiber cloth to clean. And I've already confessed to using the Orange Refinisher. The question remains, what can be used to get at least a little shine on a polyurethane-finished floor. I'm not happy to have expensive wood floors that look dull and old beyond their years. I'm sure those of you who sell and install wood floors, know that we consumers want our floors to look pretty for longer than a few months. Surely, this is not a new or unusual concern. Thank you for your advice.
PROJAN MOYER
vor 8 JahrenThe goo..........is already in the floor, which is the reason they appear dull. So sorry, but it is true. Call it dreaded waxy build up. Call a pro.
User
vor 8 JahrenYou've already ruined the floors. Sanding them down and refinishing may nor may not work depending on what's left. If the floors don't have enough meat, then they'll have to be replaced.
live_wire_oak
vor 8 JahrenPineSol will ruin a polyurethane finish. As will any oil containing product, be that Murphy's orOrange anything. It softens it and turns it into a dirt magnet. The damage is done. The floors will need to be refinished.
If the oil products have gotten into any open spaces between the wood pieces because of a failing finish, even refinishing might not work. The oil down in the cracks between the pieces will contaminate your efforts. Replacement may be the only viable option if you applied any of that over a failing finish.
PROJessy Krol Designs LLC
vor 8 Jahrenfor a quick fix (lasts about a year or two depending on use) I have been successful in my own personal space using Rejuvenate (can get it at Home depot) best of luck!
oldcarfun
vor 8 JahrenI would really appreciate an answer to the original question. What product should we use in the YEARS between sanding that will give our hardwood floors a shine? I only use water to clean mine and I am also tired of the dull look of the water based finishes that the professionals must use these days. The shine only lasts a year or two at the most.
When I was growing up women waxed their hardwood floors. Every so often they had to strip the wax off and put a fresh coat on to start over. That's the reason "wall to wall" carpeting became so popular. At least their floors looked good!- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 JahrenEveryone listen up!!!! If you get your floors refinished with polyurethane be it water or oil the life span is only about 8-1o years before it needs to be recoated or refinished. If you use the wrong cleaner that option is NO LONGER AVAILABLE TO YOU!!!! I've already named three cleaners in this thread. If you refinish with let's say Rubio monocoat you have many more options. Any A level floor sander will provide you with a cleaner or will RECCOMMENDS a floor cleaner!!!!! - PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 JahrenEnd of story!!! Pay attention homeowners or it will cost you down the road. If you hire the 'budget' floor guy then you get what you get and your on your own. To A level flooring guys this is a craft and we will charge accordingly. B,C,D level flooring guys this is a job and you ll be lucky to get anything decent out of them so don't complain. Pay upfront or pay more later on!!!!!!! live_wire_oak
vor 8 JahrenThis is part of the reason that matte finished floors have now become the finish of choice over gloss. Gloss will not maintain a shine in the wear areas without the occasional screen and recoat. Which can NEVER be done if the floors have been contaminated with inappropriate cleaning products.
gustaviatex
vor 8 JahrenWhile I appreciate all the Pros stepping in... you have to realize some of us bought houses with wood floors and have NO information about the manufacturer or finish on the floors. My wood floors have furniture scuff marks that I don't know how to remove. All I know is it is a floating installation of what I suppose is engineered hardwood.
User
vor 8 JahrenManufacturers doesn't matter. NEVER EVER use any of those products on a wood floor. Plain water with a wrung out microfiber mop is all anyone needs to clean with on a regular basis. A bit of detergent to spot clean, then wipe with a plain water damped microfiber to rinse occassionally. The obsession with ''shine'' and ''sanitizing'' is what RUINS wood floors.
PROCancork Floor Inc.
vor 8 JahrenAdding shine to a dull floor is all about removing the thing that caused the "dulling". Most of the dulling comes from the products used to clean! That means you need to remove the residue of cleaning products used for years. That's a lot of elbow grease.
@gustaviatex...Furniture scuff marks aren't "dirt". They are scratches etched into the finish. You can use a touch up pen in the same colour as your floors...and then add furniture "glides" under the semi-permanent pieces (sofa, arm chair, etc) and the felt pads underneath the movable objects (foot stools, dining room chairs, side tables, etc).
The touch up pens are temporary fixes. Some will get you a few years...others will get you a few months. Personally I use a water based felt marker (Crayola comes to mind) which slowly wears away with the slightly-damp mopping mentioned in Sophie's post. The engineered hardwoods can, on occasion, be refinished but not all of them have the type of finish nor the type of wear layer that allows for refinishing. Do what you can to keep it looking nice...there isn't much you can do about those scratches until you have it refinished (which we have established may not be possible).
classysass
vor 8 JahrenThank you oldcarfun for explaining my post about how to get a floor to look nice between refinishing. My question relates back to the three previous homes and the floors to which I did not apply anything but plain water with a wrung-out microfiber mop. I didn't put any gunk on those floors and they always looked murky. I had a satin finish; not a gloss finish. In the event I can get my current floors refinished by way of 6-10 sandings by a highly trained artisan, and I get a satin sheen put on, how can I maintain that look for any length of time? As mentioned before, it seems that regardless of the method of cleaning, the floors look dull. Hence the desire to ruin my floor by using cheap "quick fix" products. Those products are highly advertised and I believe they are sold in vast numbers. Do flooring professionals have a trade association? If so, perhaps your dues would be well-spent with a counter advertising campaign to educate homeowners of the hazards of using these products. I may sound sarcastic, I'm not. I'm exasperated that I, a relatively intelligent person who reads Houzz like the Bible, had no knowledge of the harm I was doing to my home when my goal was to achieve a clean, attractive-looking floor.- PRO
Cancork Floor Inc.
vor 8 Jahren@classysass...I know this is frustrating. The only reason why these "cheap" fixes exist is the public's DESIRE for shiny. Without this desire (read: niche to fill in the market = money to be made) the chemical companies would NOT produce these products.
A satin finish may not be enough for you. A semi-gloss floor may be more appropriate. There are people who feel shiny=clean. These "shiny" people (and there is nothing wrong with this feeling) need a higher gloss floor to feel "good" about their home. The "satin" finish will never "feel" good. Professionals use satins because a lot of people find them easier to live with...but not EVERYONE is comfortable with satin. For those people, a semi-gloss (even if it is not in fashion) is a better choice.
I also feel exasperated with these chemical companies that create these "quick fixes". I suggest to my clients that it will continue until class-action lawsuits are thrown at Murphy's Oil Soap, OrangeGlo, Mop&Glo, etc. Only when the USERS/purchasers of these products start suing these companies, will these companies reduce their advertising.
As professionals, we can offer advice when asked. We have to be asked to offer advice. We cannot force anyone to do anything. Advertising is allowed in a free society. Lawsuits are part of a free society. As flooring professionals we can only advise when asked. How many people purchase BEFORE they ask? Probably 90%. I can't counter 90% of the population by answering 1 question at a time.
The 90% of the population who have purchased these products and subsequently ruined their floors can create a class-action lawsuit to QUASH the advertising. These chemical companies will not stop UNTIL they loose lawsuits. That is the way of a free economy.
I would LOVE to see a class-action against Murphy's Oil. It would make my day. I cannot start one because I am NOT A CLIENT! I have not purchased it, therefore I cannot START a class-action. Only a client (purchaser) can start a class-action. I encourage someone to start one. I would love to see these chemical companies held to account. Go for it. It would be MASSIVE.
- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 JahrenEveryone has a choice. The way we finish 99% of our floors are with hard wax oil. They is zero 'murkyness'. Rubio makes their own cleaner. If I'm buying a car I ask a lot of questions. Why not do the same when you buy/get your floors refinished?? Ask about the finishes available. RUBIO MONOCOAT. I'll say it again RUBIO MONOCOAT. live_wire_oak
vor 8 JahrenRubio isn't shiny though, right? What happens when someone uses the incorrect care products to create "shine" on top of a hard wax oil that isn't shiny in the first place? Orange oil, or any incorrect care product forms the same grungy film, right?
The finish isn't the issue. It's the post finish care. Incorrect care products. And incorrect expectations that leads to using those incorrect care products.
- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 JahrenI'm not going to elaborate but think about what you said. Oil cleaners on an oiled floor..... live_wire_oak
vor 8 JahrenWould not solvents and oil partially dissolve cured oil finishes? Much like lacquer thinner on a lacquer finish? I have never seen any finish that orange oil couldn't screw up that's for sure. It has long been used as an adhesive remover by a lot of merchandisers doing resets, and has done a lot of inadvertent damage when it got away from them.
classysass
vor 8 JahrenCancork Floor Inc. Thank you for your professional reply and I understand the frustration you must experience when a customer is angry because they have to pay more, or experience delays in refinishing their floors when they are to blame for the problem at hand. i do want to clarify: I'm not trying to see my reflection in my floor finish. I just want them to look clean. My complaint is not that my floors don't shine, it's that they look cloudy and murky. Murky to me means dull, grey, lackluster, and just plain dirty. I'm not OCD but when I spend time, sweeping (with a clean broom) vacuuming, dry dusting with a microfiber mop and then damp mopping, again with a microfiber mop, I want the floors to look like it. And, yes, I actually do all those steps before I put the OrangeGlo gunky product on. I don't do that step anymore because of the information I have learned in this discussion. I just did that this afternoon and feel like my efforts are wasted because, although there are no longer crumbs or dog hair on the floor, it doesn't look much better than before i did all those steps. I checked online and found The Floor Covering Installation Contractors Association which provides education programs to its members. As a former trade association executive, I know that PR efforts, such as I suggested in my earlier post, not only highlight the positive aspects of the industry but can inform the public, which I think is the key in this situation. I think that kind of effort could make a lot of difference perhaps eliminating the need for a class action lawsuit. I didn't intend for this discussion to become so intense but when I am informed that my $25,000 investment in hardwood floors throughout my house has been completely ruined, it becomes more of an issue to me and I suspect to other readers who are as ill-informed as I was.
- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 Jahren@classysass by no means is your investment ruined. The finish on top of that investment is a different story ( unless you have low grade engineered). All solids can be refinished. Just to clarify. - PRO
Cancork Floor Inc.
vor 8 Jahren@classysass...one thing I know for sure: all chemicals have a "reverse". If one chemical puts it down, another chemical can remove it. Contact OrangeGlo to find out what their "reverse" is. Many people have done what you have done and been able to reverse the build up. The build up is causing the murkiness (the very reason you started using it in the first place). The build up is "grabbing" more and more fine particles and "holding" them in place (looks gray or dusty even after a bit of damp cleaning) and those fine particles are grinding down the finish that is on the floor (it is an old finish to be sure...so don't be so quick to put down this old, tired finish...it has done its job since 1979...whew! It is allowed to be tired).
Several threads on the internet have been started about what people have had to do to get the OrangeGlo off their floors (think rubber gloves, rubbing alcohol, hands and knees with plastic "scrapers"). It took HOURS for them to do it...but they did it.
Please contact OrangeGlo so you can get this stuff off the floor. Once it is off, now we can get it looking "good" once again. It is not ruined...it will simply take a lot of work to get it looking good. The start = removing the build up. You can do that. It is "free" (other than some rubber gloves, plastic scraper and some cheap "chemicals"). You can do "patches" at a time (most people work in 2ft x 2ft patches to start). Once it is off, a professional can come in and refinish those floors (so long as they have enough thickness to be sanded).
classysass
vor 8 JahrenThanks Canook. I appreciate you following up with some suggestions. I think it was the original poster whose floor was laid in 1979. She's the one who used Pinesol to clean the floor. In 2006, my husband laid regular red oak in the dining room, living room and his office to complete the main floor. The entry, hall and kitchen were original to the house built in 1989. We hired a professional to sand, stain and finish the entire floor at that time. Nevertheless, it probably is time to consider refinishing it. I will check into the methods you suggested. Fortunately, I have large area rugs covering most of the area to which I have not applied the OrangeGlo product. The only areas I have done are the hallway and kitchen. I have an area rug under the kitchen table so it's been protected too. I'll find a spot to try one of those removal methods. Oh, also, the floor we have is thick. It is not the engineered type. And, I'm pretty sure the job we had done in '06 was the first refinishing that has been done. I'm not sure whether you are the one who talked about "A" refinishers vs. "B,C,and D" refinishers I think meaning the quality of their work. Can you advise me as to how to select the best quality refinisher? I think that's a whole other issue. I mean, if you don't get quality workmanship in the first place, it seems you are susceptible to problems from the start. If you have a substandard floor, wouldn't you be more apt to look for solutions like I did? How does a consumer know who to trust? That would be another great PR idea for a trade association. Let me know your thoughts on that topic too. Again, I appreciate your efforts to help me. This thread has really been educational for me, and I hope for other Houzzers as well.- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 Jahren@classysass look up on this site for a certified pro 'a' type of company. woodfloors.org clic on the tab at the top ' certified professionals' . Once you find someone look up there online reviews. That's how to find a proper well trained pro that you can trust. decoratingdeb
vor 8 JahrenAnyone try the sand less floor refinishing companies? Would love to hear thoughts on this. How about vinegar and water that's what I've used for years.- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 JahrenSand less companies are just glorified(overpriced) recoats. If you have abused your finish(wrong cleaners) then it won't even work. Save your money. They will not give you the outcome you desire. decoratingdeb
vor 8 JahrenSo basically if you buy a house with hardwood floors and you don't like the color or the condition of the floor then all you can do is rip them out and start fresh?live_wire_oak
vor 8 JahrenIf the floors are good quality, then sanding and refinishing is always on the table as a possibility. The curve ball comes if those Previous Owner "care" products have seeped down in between the boards. Anyone who has ever used a silicon based "dusting" product on wood has forever doomed any future finish adhesion unless you can get to bare wood everywhere. It's a chance that you take when refinishing and don't know what someone before you did to the floors.
- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 Jahren@live_wire Rubio is compatible with that situation. I've come across that many times without a problem even on their darker colors. ahelton142
Ursprünglicher Verfasservor 8 JahrenSo this is what I ended up doing with my floors ! I did lots of searching and read lots of reviews ended up buying the bona spray cleaner with the dust mop and cleaning pad . Used that then applied the bona pro series refresher (2coats) . I bought the polish then returned it after reading reviews and got the refresher instead. Hope I didn't upset you experts too bad. I have to say my floors look great . Here is before and after!
classysass
vor 8 JahrenOh my! I've been doing research too and one of the shocking things I learned is that Bona is the company that makes the OrangeGlo stuff I suggested in the first place that started all this controversy. So your floors look fabulous, just like mine did when I used the OrangeGlo. OMG. I do hope it's not the same stuff and I'll tell you why:
I decided i wanted to see if there was really a mess after having used the OrangeGlo, not once, but several times (like once a week for a long time. Shhh, don't tell.) So this afternoon I put together a mixture of ammonia and hot water and started to clean my laundry room, which is small and not noticeable to anyone but my husband and me. He saw what I was doing and said I was crazy and the floor people could just sand the stuff off when we have the floors redone. Well, after Cancork and Ultimate have spent so much time explaining to me how wrong I was to put that "crap" on the floor, I told my husband he should really read the thread for himself. I started in a corner and not much happened. I was thinking that was because I usually didn't spend much time polishing the laundry room floor. However, I did notice that the area where I was working was becoming sticky. So I got a plastic spatula out and started scraping like some of the reviewers of the OrangeGlo suggested. It started to come up. Long story a little shorter. . . I did the laundry room floor and started to work my way out into the kitchen where i did usually put a good amount of OrangeGlo on over time. It was just gross. Imagine if you put a layer of Elmer's Glue on the floor and then a few years later decided to clean it up. It scrapes up in sheets. I was thinking of taking a picture of it but it was just too gross. I'm not a bad housekeeper and I try to keep the floors clean but you wouldn't believe it if you saw this filthy gunk. The strangest part of all is that the areas that I cleaned actually became a much lighter color and the adjacent areas which I didn't clean (yet) were a greyish color. It was very distinct and obvious that the OrangeGlo discolored the floor as well as perhaps impeded a successful refinish. So. . .I have my tail between my legs and I am here to admit I did the wrong thing and I not only suggested that you use it ahelton142, but who knows how many others read that and ran to Home Depot to get some. The source of the information about Bona making OrangeGlo was on a hardwood floor refinisher's blog site and they were really upset because they had no idea either and felt betrayed because they've been recommending Bona to their customers for years themselves. I spent a good deal of time reading about this online. Customers who used OrangeGlo were indignant about it and one woman said she spent $19,000 getting her floors cleaned after using the stuff and I think that probably included the refinishing too. Lots of discussion about class action law suits too. The irony of the whole thing are the suggestions about using substitute polishes by different manufacturers but I have a feeling they're all similar and none are any good for our floors. Before you apply another coat of the Bona stuff you used, please read up on it. This cleaning job is not easy and I'm not looking forward to finishing up the rest of the floor. Best wishes.
User
vor 8 JahrenBona AB is a privately held Swedish company with zero affiliation with Church and Dwight, the company that acquired Orange Glo.
classysass
vor 8 JahrenThank you Sophie Wheeler. I don't want to spread false information. Please refer to this link: http://www.hardwoodfloorsmag.com/component/com_kunena/Itemid,292/catid,6/id,31/view,topic/
This is from the NWFA, National Wood Flooring Association magazine blog. Perhaps I read too much into this quote from a Bona representative:"Woodman -
First to clarify, Bona has not manufactured any Orange Glo
floor care products since 2007 and we never made their 2-in-1 product
(which sounds like the product involved here); only their general floor
cleaner and a polish product (our logo would be on the back). In regard
to this particular issue, you are correct in your initial thought of
having the customer call Orange Glo directly for their recommendation.
It might be an application issue (not enough or too much) and hopefully
they can help her resolve and remove the residue/squeak issue; after
which she could incorporate a preferred pH neutral cleaner made
specifically for hardwood floors and a microfiber mop system. Any
further questions, feel free to call the Bona Technical Services
department at (800) 872-5515. Thanks!"
I appreciate your correction. It was an inadvertent mistake on my part.- PRO
Cancork Floor Inc.
vor 8 Jahren@classysass, I'm glad you were able to remove the OrangeGlo gunk...frightening isn't it? Thank you for writing about your experience. It takes a brave person to go ahead and take a chance by correcting one's self.
@ahelton142..the shine that you are looking for is there. I'm glad you found a product that offered what you were looking for. The Bona Refresher is a temporary "polish" like product. It is a polymer finish that wears off over time (polymer = plastic). Once you start with this product, it must be reapplied as per need (every 6 months is common). After the 5th/6th application you will need to strip the layers of refresher off the floor (see classyass' efforts to remove the OrangeGlo) and start again. These refreshers are "temporary polishes"...they require continuous application (every 6 months, with removal every 3 years) until you feel you wish to refinish the floor. Once you start with these refreshers, you will need to continue with them. They are temporary "plastic" that slowly wears off with use. The areas that don't get foot traffic will not wear off, the traffic areas will. Eventually, after 5-6 applications, you will have a build up of "plastic" at the walls (it will be visible...kinda like melted wax). This is why you will eventually need to strip down all those layers and start again...the build up at the walls prevents you from being able to reapply without stripping.
Good luck.
classysass
vor 8 JahrenCancork, I think that's what these forums are for: sharing important information and perhaps helping others to avoid the same mistakes. I sincerely appreciate your genuine support on this.oldcarfun
vor 8 JahrenI'm still wondering how to keep my floors looking nice for the many years in between re-finishing which was the original question. You've told us what not to use. My hardwood floors (2" ash, 3rd grade and better for color variation) were installed in our kitchen and entryway in 1990. We had a dishwasher problem about 1995 that caused a flood overnight and in 2007 we had pipes break in the attic when we were gone that flooded our hardwood floors again. Both times we waited a year for thorough drying before having them sanded and re-stained. We live in CA and can only get water based finishes. Our floors are in dire need of re-finishing now. There are open cracks where a water leak from our ice maker (read: NEVER put hardwood floors in a kitchen!) used to be. The wood absorbs the water and swells. When the problem is fixed and the wood dries there are cracks. In addition, the finish looks horrible except under the rugs. We are retired and the only two living in the house. I use only water to clean the floors. How many re-finishes can the floors take if they are 3/4" tongue and groove? They look worn and dull 90% of the time. It is expensive, and inconvenient, to have them refinished. We plan to live here the rest of our lives but the hardwood floors are a big pain. If they looked good they might be worth it.
- PRO
Cancork Floor Inc.
vor 8 Jahren@oldcarfun....How many times a floor can be refinished is based on how much wear surface resides ABOVE the tongue. The floor must have 3mm above the tongue to be considered "floor grade". Once you get to the 3mm above the tongue, you have run out of sandings. It typically takes 3mm off of the floor per sanding/refinishing. Some will say it takes less,others more. If you guestimate 3mm of wood per refinishing, you get the idea I'm talking about.
Traditionally a hardwood floor was sanded and refinished every 20-25 years. That means the floor could "live" for 60-80 years. If your floor has already received two (2) full sand and refinish since 1990...your floor may not have any more life left in it. A hardwood flooring professional can come in and measure the amount of wood that exists above the tongue. If there is enough "meat" left on the floor, it can probably be done one more time.
As for "looking good", the choice of product (professional grade vs. off the shelf stuff) is part of what can cause a wood finish to look worn and dull. The very high end finishes can maintain their appearance for a decade or so (Bona Traffic = $200+ per gallon; Streetshoe by Basic = $180 - $200 per gallon; Loba 2K Supra AT = $180 - $200 per gallon).
A pick-me-up application of new finish (buff and coat) can be done to any wood floor around about year 10-15. This is a light scuffing of the finish (not sanding off...just scuffing up) and then a single coat of high end finish is applied. This adds another 10-12 years of "looking good" to the floor before it requires a full sand and refinish.
What you are doing is pretty much all you should be doing to a wood floor. Sweeping, vacuuming, occasional "lightly damp mop" (water only...so little water that the microfibre mop head feels almost dry) and the occasional "hardwood cleaner" (pH neutral hardwood floor cleaner) every few weeks (1-2/month). That's it.
Teresa Sabens
vor 8 JahrenCancork...first, let me thank you and other professionals for taking the time for your responses on NUMEROUS threads regarding maintenance of wood floors.
I have two year old engineered wood floors that have only had Bona used on them...until I grew frustrated with the haze and started reading the blogs. At this point, I have switched to using only a damp microfiber pad mop and am interested in the neutral Ph cleaner you mentioned. Are there some better than others, or is that phrase on the container sufficient?- PRO
ULTIMATE HARDWOOD LTD
vor 8 Jahren@sabens Glitsa makes a ph balanced floor cleaner and it works well. Teresa Sabens
vor 8 JahrenThanks, Ultimate! Really appreciate your contributions in helping us get smart about our floors!
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